Temagami 2017 – An Instagram Trip Log, Explained

Sept. 13, 2017

300-ish kilometres. 18 days. 14 days of rain and/or storms. One broken boot.

This year, I’ve chosen to share my Temagami trip log through a different format: Instagram.

If you don’t have Instagram or don’t follow me already (for shame!), I’m posting it for you here in chronological order. If you’ve already been following but missed some posts in your feeds due to sponsored content (for shame!), this should be an easy way to see the story in the order it happened.

If you have no clue how to use Instagram, this post is also for you! Many of the posts have multiple pictures in the gallery. The row of dots at the bottom of the image lets you know if there’s more than one photo in a set. You can tap the arrows on the sides of the photos to go back and forth between them. You’re welcome, Mom.

Some guy once said a picture tells a thousand words, so along with my verbose captions you’ve got quite a lot of reading to do.

Click the link below to see the story.

Temagami 2017 – An Instagram Trip Log

 

Temagami 2017 – An Instagram Trip Log

 

A 300-ish kilometre Temagami Canoe Trip

July 31 – August 17, 2017

 

DAY ONE: Sandy Inlet, Ferguson Bay – Sharp Rock Inlet, Lake Temagami

 

DAY TWO: Sandy Inlet, Lake Temagami – Diamond Lake – Lain Lake – Pencil Lake – Wakimika Lake

 

DAY THREE: Wakimika Lake – Some Unnamed Pond – Another Lake With No Name – Sylvester Lake

 

DAY FOUR: Sylvester Lake – Hortense Lake – Dorothy Lake – Nasmith Creek – The “Worst Day Of My Life” Portage – Chapin Lake

 

DAY FIVE: Chapin Lake – Lake #13 – Lake #12 – Lake #11- Lake #10 – Livingston Lake – Beaver Lake

 

DAY SIX: Beaver Lake – Pinetorch Creek – Upper Pinetorch Lake – Pinetorch Creek, again – Pinetorch Lake – Pine Lake – Akick Lake – Bitty Lake – Tierney Lake* – Bowler Lake – Mudchannel Lake – Talking Falls, Yorston River

*unofficial name but will labelled as such on future maps if I grease the right palms

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DAY 6: The weather was chilly and damp for a very important day of travel. Portages down the Pinetorch Creek were shortened by an industrious beaver's construction projects and by lunchtime we'd left the Pinetorch Conservation Reserve and entered the Solace Wildlands – Temagami's last roadless, virgin wilderness and a major connecting link between the protected areas of Sturgeon River Provincal Park to the south and west, Obabika River Provincial Park to the east, and Solace Provincial Park and Lady Evelyn-Smoothwater Provincial Park to the north. We learned earlier this summer that a primary logging road is slated for construction right through the Wildlands to harvest over-prime timber destined for the pulp mill in Sudbury. The Turner Road proposal includes numerous water crossings which would erase portages and campsites, some in use for thousands of years, culminating in a crossing at Talking Falls on the Yorston River. As @friendsoftemagami members (I'm a Director), we felt it was important to do what we could to protect these important link routes. We signed and blazed portages and campsites from Akick Lake west to Talking Falls, a beautiful, remote campsite worth every bit of effort to get to. A primary logging road would destroy this rugged and wild landscape. Please consider joining the Friends of Temagami and Earthroots in our effort to Save Solace and preserve these important link routes through the heart of Temagami 🛶🌲⛺️ . . . #friendsoftemagami #paddleON #discoverON . . . #temagami #solacewildlands #canoe #canoeing #canoetripping #portage #portaging #environmentalactivism #earthroots #ontario #ontarioparks #ontarioparksne #wilderness #backcountry #wanderlust #keepitwild #savethetrees #conservation #paddlecanada #ourcamplife #neverstopexploring #savesolace

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DAY SEVEN: Talking Falls, Didn’t Move, Did Laundry Instead

 

DAY EIGHT: Talking Falls – Yorston River – Mudchannel Lake – Yorston River – Bluesucker Lake And Temagami’s Finest Cobblers – Benner Lake – Rodd Lake – Pilgrim Lake

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DAY 8: BEST DAY! Reluctantly packed up at Talking Falls and shared coffee and a chat about the overnight thunderstorm with our camp neighbour @jmedelaney . We signed the last portage on our way north to Bluesucker Lake. On Bluesucker we heard some chainsaw noises and paddled over to investigate, finding the most lovely little cabin on a beach. As we neared the dock, a small, wiry woman ran down from the cabin waving her arms and inviting us over, so we beached the canoe and introduced ourselves. I asked if she happened to have any Shoe Goo to fix my boot with because I'd been walking around with a flapping heel for days. With a slam of the screen door, her husband came bounding down the steps with surprising speed for having an artificial leg. The cabin owners, John and Debbie, greeted us warmly and showed us around their property which they share with campers often. They told us they're a "safe camp" for @taylorstattencamps and that the Wapomeo girls on 50-day trips make a point of stopping by to enjoy a fish fry with them and use the sauna. Debbie ran over to their underground cellar, produced two ice-cold beers for us and invited us in while John got to work on repairing my boot. They fed us fish cakes and we had a wonderful chat about the area. They told us they'd been coming to this cabin for the 50 years they've been married but because the area was now part of Solace Provincial Park, once they die the cabin does too. Rather than being upset about it, they were happy that they were still able to use the cabin by flying in during the summer and snowmobiling in during the winter. The boot repair was a spectacular feat of northern ingenuity. With a cordless drill and three screws, John reattached my sole. They didn't have Shoe Goo but they did have a can of spray foam insulation which gave my boot a fun marshmallow look. Debbie ripped out the insoles from a pair of her boots for me and took our photo. Thanking them profusely, we went on our way to camp on Pilgrim Lake for the night, where I invented a delicious new bush cocktail and we watched the stars come out one by one 🌌⛺️🌲 . . . #friendsoftemagami #paddleON #discoverON #ourcamplife #savesolace

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DAY NINE: Pilgrim Lake – Maggie Lake – Bill Lake – Samson Lake – Solace Lake

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DAY 9: No rain overnight, which meant there had been exactly two 24-hour periods without a storm on our trip so far. Andrew woke early, and when I finally dragged myself out of the tent we made blueberry pancakes to give us energy for what we hoped would be a big travel day to make up some time. It was hot, still and muggy as we set off across Pilgrim Lake and the steep portages left us sweaty and breathless. As we reached Solace Lake, the clouds blackened and we knew we were about to get walloped. We set up a tarp at the end of the portage to wait out the storm. The wind roared, trees swayed and popped, heavy rain flew across the lake in great sheets of water and the thunder and lightning cracked right above us. After three hours of feeling trapped under our tarp, we set off again only to have the clouds circle back around on us. We raced to the nearest campsite, flying past it in our haste and then doubling back while lightning touched down over the ridge. It was only 3:30p.m. but we couldn't trust the weather to go any farther. We were still two days behind schedule and we couldn't do a damn thing about it ⛈⚡️🌲 . . . #friendsoftemagami #paddleON #discoverON . . . #temagami #canoe #canoeing #canoetripping #portaging #camping #ourcamplife #ontario #ontarioparks #ontarioparksne #solaceprovincalpark #northernontario #getoutside #backcountry #wilderness #wanderlust #paddling #neverstopexploring #thunderstorm #soakedagain

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DAY TEN: Solace Lake – Einar Lake – Biscuit Lake – Broadbent Lake* – Carrying Bar Lake – Tooth Lake – Cavity Creek** – Melanson Lake – Regan Lake – Hamlow Lake – Little Scarecrow Lake – Woods Lake

*the namesake of the palms I must grease to get a lake named after me on future maps

**a bad joke referring to the small waterbody flowing from Tooth Lake

 

DAY 11: Woods Lake – Scarecrow Lake – Mihell Lake

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DAY 11: A terrible, horrible, no good very bad day. It was the anniversary of our engagement but things started going wrong the moment we woke up. Andrew went for a spot of fishing while I made breakfast and instead of catching anything, a small dead fish floated up to the surface next to the canoe. "I think it's a gift! It could be good luck," he said. "Good luck?! I think that's a bad omen," I replied. We set off and found a huge turtle hiding under a log. We thought it was dead at first: its shell was mushy and it wouldn't move. Andrew fed the dead fish he'd been dragging behind the canoe to the turtle and it perked right up. "There," he said. "It was good luck." Moments later, thunder began to rumble behind the hills. We paddled hard to reach the Ishpatina Ridge trailhead campsite to wait out the storm and came across a group of kids about to hike to the fire tower. Thinking they were set up at the site, we asked if it was cool to crash there while the storm rolled through. They told us it looked like someone else was camping there but that there was no one around. Upon further inspection the campsite looked like it had been abandoned in a hurry. The amount of garbage was unbelievable. Five tarps, half-eaten food, utensils, pots and pans, stacks of clothes, live cut trees, actual shit, full bottles of oil, fuel canisters and unopened backpacker pantry meals were scattered everywhere. We couldn't imagine how anyone could have left a campsite looking like such a dump. In the hours waiting out the storm, we did our best to clean it up, burning everything we could in a big hot smelly garbage fire, stacking the tarps and leaving a nasty note in case the offenders returned. When the storm broke we set off again, only to get drenched in another downpour on Mihell Lake, where we missed our campsite and had to turn back around. We were both miserable. The forest was so wet that Andrew was unable to get a fire started, which has never happened before. Grumbling at each other and saying very mean things, we went to bed angry and soggy and hoping for just one day without stupid, annoying thunderstorms. . . . #friendsoftemagami #paddleON #discoverON

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DAY 12: Mihell Lake – McColluch Lake – A Small Pond – Another Small Pond – Apex Lake – Smoothwater Lake

 

DAY 13: Smoothwater Lake – Marina Lake – Whitepine Lake – Sunnywater Lake – A Pond – Junction Lake – An Incredibly Long 3,895m Portage Which I Will Never Do In The Opposite Direction – Gamble Lake

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DAY 13: Sunshine, glorious sunshine! The fine weather made our decision to travel two days' distance in one an easy choice. From Smoothwater Lake we hiked up some of the most ridiculous portages in the Temagami area to Sunnywater, a turquoise jewel of a lake set in the hills of the area's highest active canoe routes, reached by three portages totalling 2km that climb a combined 88m over rocks and up a veritable waterfall. We lunched on Sunnywater, catching our breath and mentally preparing ourselves for the longest portage of the trip: 3,895m to Gamble Lake and the beginning of our downstream journey on the South Lady Evelyn River. We began the descent around 5 p.m. and chose to leapfrog our gear four times so as not to get stranded in the dark without half of our equipment. Four and a half hours later, we arrived on Gamble Lake. If the portage had been another uphill, I doubt we would have made our goal. In one day we had portaged a total of 21km, accounting for the double-carries. I don't know if I've ever felt so happily exhausted and accomplished as I did that night while we sat around the fire and caught glimpses of the Perseid meteor shower through the treetops. We needed this. Day 13 was a fabulous day. We slept like the dead. . . . #friendsoftemagami #paddleON #discoverON . . . #temagami #canoe #canoeing #canoetripping #paddling #portaging #camping #ourcamplife #ontario #ontarioparks #ontarioparksne #backcountry #wilderness #wanderlust #neverstopexploring

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DAY 14: Gamble Lake – Chance Lake – North Lady Evelyn River – Rapid #2 (CI-II, ran) – Rapid #3 (CII, ran, great fun) – Rapid #4 (CII tech, portaged) – Rapid #5 (Camped)

 

DAY 15: Rapid #5 (CI, portaged, bony) – Rapid #6 (CI, portaged, large ledge) – Macpherson Lake – Rapid #7 (CII, ran) – Rapid #8 (CI tech, ran) – Rapid #9 (CI, ran) – Shangri La And The Storm Of The Century – Rapid #11 (CI-II, ran) – Rapid #12 (CI, ran) – Katherine/Divide Lake – Rapid #13 (CI tech, ran) – The Cabin At Cabin Falls

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DAY 15: The sun struggled to burn off the morning mist and the humidity made us feel like we were in a glass dome. The blueberries through the old burn by MacPherson Chutes were exceptional again this year and we shovelled handfuls into our mouths along the portage. We were both starting to look quite skinny despite the amount of food we were eating every day. At the portage to Shangri-La we ran into the group of guys we'd met the day before. One of their trip-mates injured himself in the night and they were trying to get to Diamond Lake as quickly as possible. We told them it was unlikely that they'd make it there by nightfall but they seemed determined to get out without assistance so we told them the shortest route. We stopped for lunch and a swim in the Shangri-La falls. I washed my hair for the first time in a week. Less than twenty minutes later, the sky turned black and thunder roared close by so we set up our tarp to wait it out. The storm came in quickly and with a ferocity we hadn't yet seen. Our tarp was pelted by hail, lightning forked overhead and – no exaggeration – at least 50mm of rain fell over the next FIVE HOURS we sat under our tarp. Eventually we managed to make a break for it and paddled hard past Rapids 11 & 12. When we got to Cabin Falls we were on the verge of hypothermia. I'd been asked to water the flowers at the cabin (unnecessary, but I did remove the deadheads so they'd bloom again) and told that we should have stayed there last year after we got engaged just upstream. That was enough for us to decide to bunk in the old cabin for the night. That and the whole hypothermia thing. We were so incredibly grateful for this friendly port in a two-week storm. Once we warmed up I wrote a 4-page letter to Hap and Andrea about our trip up to this point and we fell asleep to the sweet lullaby of the waterfall. . . . #friendsoftemagami #paddleON #discoverON . . . #temagami #canoe #canoeing #canoetripping #camping #ourcamplife #cabinlife #hailstorm #thunderstorm #portaging #ontario #ontarioparks #ontarioparksne #backcountry #wilderness #wanderlust #neverstopexploring

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DAY 16: Cabin Falls – Bridal Veil Falls – Rapid #15 (CII-III, portaged) – Fat Man’s Falls – Rapid #16 (CI-II, ran) – Rapid #17 (CI, ran) – Rapid #18 (CI tech, ran, got a bit stuck) – Rapid #19 (CI tech, ran but also nonexistent or I lost count two years in a row) – Willow Island Lake – Klutz Lake, Crowley Lake and Cleary Pond* – Diamond Lake – Lady Evelyn Lake

*this is really just a series of small ponds broken up by extremely boggy portages where you’re guaranteed to sink waist-deep in muskeg and have no idea where you are but you might see a bald eagle like we did so that’s cool

 

DAY 17: Lady Evelyn Lake – Diamond Lake – Bob Lake – Mud Lake – Chee-Skon Lake – Obabika Lake

 

DAY 18: Obabika Lake – Obabika Inlet – Lake Temagami (A Wet Exit)

 

THE END

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Getting Back to Nature in the Heart of the City

August 29, 2017

Well folks, I’ve been very busy these past few months.

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I’ve spent 34 nights in a tent so far this year, gone on countless day trips, completed my first year of J-School, volunteered as a director on the board of the Friends of Temagami, started freelancing for Rapid Media and written two articles for Ontario Travel. I have grand and ambitious plans to get some more trip reports up on the blog in the next while, but with school and other writing commitments I’m not sure how realistic those goals are. I am, however, very active on Instagram and I’ve been posting daily stories and photos from a recent 18-day canoe trip in Temagami if you want to check those out.

The articles I’ve written for Ontario Travel are about the places I paddle close to home. I know, it’s weird that I live in Toronto considering how much time I spend up north but we gotta pay the bills somehow. Andrew and I have explored many of Toronto’s waterways and there’s definitely something pretty cool about being able to canoe through Canada’s largest city.

Urban Canoeing Articles

The Canoe and the City explores some of the reasons that we and many others use the rivers and Lake Ontario for recreational paddling. Toronto has a rich history of canoe culture that continues to this day through paddling festivals, informal meet-ups and a thriving community of local paddlers.

Wild in the City is all about the places in Toronto we like to paddle and how to access them. The Humber River, the Credit River and the Toronto Islands are favourites of ours for the evenings and weekends we just can’t get away.

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So don’t worry! I haven’t fallen off the face of the earth/sold my canoe/been eaten by a bear. I’m just in the process of turning my love for canoeing and writing into an actual job, which is pretty damn cool.

Bushcraft: Wilderness Living in the 21st Century

March 28, 2017

By Tierney Angus

It’s a return to the forest and a primitive way of living; it’s an escape from city life and the technology of our present time. It’s a natural extension of the beard-and-plaid aesthetic so popular today – and it’s having a huge moment online.

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This is bushcraft: The art of practicing wilderness skills while enjoying the great outdoors. It’s not about survival skills or preparing for the apocalypse, although the techniques do share similarities. Survival is staying alive long enough to be rescued and get home, whereas bushcraft is about using wilderness skills and knowledge to stay out in the bush longer.

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Saving the Savannah: High Park’s ‘Elite Invasive Squad’

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volunteer work to help restore toronto’s high park doesn’t stop, even under a blanket of snow

By: Tierney Angus

Feb. 17, 2017

The City of Toronto and a dedicated group of volunteers are working together to restore High Park’s rare black oak savannah habitat.

Stately trees, some over two centuries old, dot a rolling, grassy landscape. Native grasses and rare wildflowers bloom, visited by migratory birds. The woodland is a glimpse into what southern Ontario looked like before cities, towns, and subdivisions cut the land into tidy little parcels. It seems an ancient, primeval world, until the next group of tourists steps off the bus and the spell is broken.

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Guest Posts @ Man Camping & MySelfReliance

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our hot-tent in the temagami forest

 

Hey  dudes and dudettes,

I’ve written up a couple guest posts for other cool bloggers. Until I get around to writing up four (!) trip reports from last year for my blog, you may want to check these out.

Scot at Man Camping asked me to write a piece for his week of Man Camping Women features. Ladies are man-campers too! The site’s tagline is “it’s not a gender thing, it’s a state of mind and lack of planning thing.” I also drink a lot of beer and eat far too much bacon, so I think I fit in perfectly. Check out my post about my first backcountry experience here. I hit a beaver with my canoe paddle, Andrew was attacked by numerous tiny leeches, and we both ended up puking out of both vestibules of our tent all night. Truly a lovely introduction to the backcountry.

Andrew and I went camping  for five days in the Temagami area this January, and Shawn of My Self Reliance came to visit and interview us about our winter kit. Shawn put together an awesome video which you can watch here and also posted a little write-up I prepared about how we got into winter camping. I hope it’s helpful if you’re looking to try winter camping but aren’t sure where to start.

Sorry I haven’t had time to update my blog too often lately. School, work, and other commitments are taking priority at the moment. But, hey! You can always follow me on Instagram for the time being.

Cheers,

Tierney

If a Tree Falls in the Temagami Forest…

By: Tierney Angus
November 28, 2016

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View of the White Bear Forest from the Caribou Mountain fire tower, Temagami ON

That night there came a storm, crashing down from the mountains; and in the tempest the lonely Tree moaned and wailed, and shook wildly on its foundations, and silhouetted against the white glare of the lightning it seemed to writhe, and be contorted into shapes of agony.

And the mountains looked on in stony calmness; for they knew that trees must die and so must men, but that they live on forever.  

-Archie Belaney, a.k.a. Grey Owl, “Tales of an Empty Cabin”

The Temagami Wilderness area is a vast, 16,000 square kilometre tract of land in Northeastern Ontario. Its boundaries are loosely defined by the town of Sudbury to the southwest, the town of North Bay to the southeast, the Ottawa River to the east, the Montreal River and the hamlet of Matchewan to the north, and the Wanipitei River to the west. Continue reading

Touring Temagami: A 17 Day Expedition PART THREE

August 2nd – 18th, 2016

The Big One. 17 days and 16 nights through the heart of the Temagami wilderness. Our longest, most challenging, most spectacularly scenic route to date. This canoe trip took us on a journey of over 250km through some of the most rugged terrain in the region, with abundant wildlife, magical old-growth forests, sacred spiritual sites and ancient portage trails in use for over 5000 years, through areas of historical significance in relation to industry and environmental activism, and travel upon 5 rivers and 31 different lakes.

PART THREE: What A Long, Strange Trip It’s Been
Alternate Title #1: For If We Don’t Find The Next Whiskey Bar, I Tell You We Must Die
Alternate Title #2: Home Is Where The Tent Is

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Touring Temagami: A 17 Day Expedition PART TWO

August 2nd – 18th, 2016

The Big One. 17 days and 16 nights through the heart of the Temagami wilderness. Our longest, most challenging, most spectacularly scenic route to date. This canoe trip took us on a journey of over 250km through some of the most rugged terrain in the region, with abundant wildlife, magical old-growth forests, sacred spiritual sites and ancient portage trails in use for over 5000 years, through areas of historical significance in relation to industry and environmental activism, and travel upon 5 rivers and 31 different lakes.

PART TWO: It’s All Downhill From Here
Alternate Title #1: The Lady Evelyn Was No Lady At All
Alternate Title #2: That’s Not A Portage, THIS Is A Portage!

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Touring Temagami: A 17 Day Expedition PART ONE

August 2nd – 18th, 2016

The Big One. 17 days and 16 nights through the heart of the Temagami wilderness. Our longest, most challenging, most spectacularly scenic route to date. This canoe trip took us on a journey of over 250km through some of the most rugged terrain in the region, with abundant wildlife, magical old-growth forests, sacred spiritual sites and ancient portage trails in use for over 5000 years, through areas of historical significance in relation to industry and environmental activism, and travel upon 5 rivers and 31 different lakes.

PART ONE: Against The Flow To Flo
Alternate Title #1: Always A Headwind
Alternate Title #2: I Fucking Hate Alder Bushes

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